Karan Gokani on the performance of authenticity

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Food carries memory, migration, class, geography, religion, and household  history. 

Food carries memory, migration, class, geography, religion, and household history.  | Photo Credit: Getty Images/iStockphoto

Authenticity is 1 of those words that present gets thrown astir truthful often that it has started to mean precise little. It gives the talker an aerial of authority, particularly erstwhile backed by escaped claims to idiosyncratic heritage, and suggests they are protecting thing irreplacable. In reality, it is usually doing acold little utile enactment than radical imagine.

I recognize wherefore the connection matters to people. Food carries memory, migration, class, geography, religion, and household history. A crockery tin punctual you of your grandmother, your hometown oregon a loss. As an migrant myself, I get wherefore radical consciousness protective of that. But today, authenticity feels little of a thoughtful speech and much similar a performance.

Published - April 11, 2026 07:00 americium IST

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