Kochi designer draws inspiration from indigenous theatre form Chavittunadakam for her Biennale pop-up

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Diya John with the ‘Coastal King’, astatine  her pop-up successful  Fort Kochi

Diya John with the ‘Coastal King’, astatine her pop-up successful Fort Kochi | Photo Credit: THULASI KAKKAT

The Salt Studio pop-up successful Fort Kochi, adjacent Pepper House, is simply a dash of kitsch colours; connected a sunny afternoon, it stands retired similar agleam fabric candy. Inside, it is much a container of confections astatine the centre of which is simply a quality retired of a Chavittunadakam play named ‘the Coastal King’ with his glorious cape flying successful the air.  This is Salt Studio laminitis Diya John’s mode of paying homage to the dance-music-drama signifier that precise fewer extracurricular Kerala cognize of. 

An indigenous creation signifier practised by the Latin Christian assemblage successful coastal Kochi implicit the past 500-odd years, it bears Portuguese and Kerala influences successful adjacent measure. The costumes — the signifier and palette — are precise antithetic and acold removed from the accepted Kerala show creation forms; the colours are brighter, the silhouettes grounds chiseled European influences. For Diya, though acquainted with Chavittunadakam, it was a fascinating process.  

From the collection

From the collection | Photo Credit: THULASI KAKKAT

“Even those of america successful Kochi who person heard of it, whitethorn not person seen it connected stage. We are acquainted with references to it, but person we seen it performed?” she asks. That led her to a heavy dive into Chavittunadakam, making discoveries on the mode astir its evolution, the antithetic schools of the form, the lives of the artists, the stories and, of course, their costumes. 

Her probe was not internet-based, alternatively she visited the artists’ homes successful Chellanam, speaking to them and documenting the accusation on the way. “It is truthful fascinating, not conscionable theatre, but however they prolong it, marque clip for it and person made it a mode of their lives contempt the challenges,” Diya says excitedly. One of her main sources was Britto Vincent, a Chavittunadakam adept and Sangeetha Nataka Akademi awardee; who besides makes garments for the performances.  

One of the Chavittunadakam-inspired clay figurines by Helna Merin Joseph astatine  Salt Studio

One of the Chavittunadakam-inspired clay figurines by Helna Merin Joseph astatine Salt Studio | Photo Credit: THULASI KAKKAT

It was inevitable that she came distant with a caput afloat of ideas and inspiration. The probe besides led her to exploring textiles, which she got particularly woven astatine Chendamangalam and fabric cloth sourced from the weaving hubs of Kannur. The silhouettes are arsenic bold arsenic the colours: tunics, dresses, pants and shirts.

Chavittunadakam arsenic inspiration does not extremity with clothes, Diya commissioned paintings inspired by it, getting Vikalp Durga Mishra, of the paintings with large-eyed people, and clay figurines by UK-based creator Helna Merin Joseph (her works were connected amusement successful the past Biennale) with VJ Lalichan. All of which are connected sale. The Coastal King, made with upcycled worldly similar insubstantial and cardboard, was done successful collaboration with sculptor June Nazara and the Salt Studio team. The crown, which adorns, was made by George Joseph, who makes crowns for Chavittunadakam artists.

Upcycled cloth  discarded  get   a 2nd  beingness  arsenic  totes

Upcycled cloth discarded get a 2nd beingness arsenic totes | Photo Credit: THULASI KAKKAT

The sourcing of merchandise is intentional, with an accent connected sustainability. Anuvad Innovation Studio’s hanging lamps are delightful  curiosities, interaction 1 of the galore vertebrate motifs connected the globular shades and you tin perceive birdsong. Touch a peacock and you perceive 1 call! While astir of the garments are Salt Studio, determination are different garment and accessory labels similar Innochi, Sirohi, World of Crow, Jaipur Rugs, Kaaro, and Taarika John.  

The pop-up runs done March 31

Published - February 17, 2026 02:11 p.m. IST

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