Inside Zetu, Delhi’s new contemporary Sri Lankan restaurant

They accidental it is ever cooler nether a banyan tree. Sitting successful the open, indoor-outdoor expanse of Zetu, the caller 175-seater astatine 1AQ successful Mehrauli, we find ourselves agreeing with this past wisdom. Though, we are not definite if the comfortableness is owed to the majestic, 500-year-old banyan histrion anchoring the courtyard oregon strategically placed outdoor AC vents, we are grateful for it, on with the caller coconut h2o with greets america astatine the gross earlier a abbreviated buggy thrust drops america astatine Zetu, built astir modern Sri-Lankan cuisine.

Settle into 1 of the cabanas connected the rooftop, propulsion up a seat astatine the agelong tables successful the outdoor conception oregon drawback yourself a cozy country inside, and immoderate anticipation of a stuffy, high-concept plan situation evaporates. Surrounded by lush greenery and tropical architecture inspired by legendary Sri Lankan designer Geoffrey Bawa, the abstraction feels blase yet unpretentious.

Derived from Setu — the Sanskrit connection for span — the founders Sarah Nikahetiya, Anurag Dania, Abhishek Mathur and Sagar Garg — gave the sanction a “zingy Z” to springiness it a sharper, modern ring.

Sarah, a erstwhile diplomat with the British High Commission stayed successful Delhi for a mates of years, and fell successful emotion with the superior earlier moving to Colombo, Sri Lanka. The thought for Zetu took signifier during her ain predominant flights backmost and distant crossed the ocean. “When you permission Colombo connected your mode to Delhi, that small drawstring of islands betwixt the 2 countries is the past happening you spot erstwhile you exit Sri Lankan airspace. It’s specified a tiny gap, but a important one. We wanted to seizure that speech betwixt modern Delhi and modern Sri Lanka, not conscionable done the food, but done the plan arsenic well,” she says.

When it comes to the food, determination is simply a genuine consciousness of storytelling connected the plate, culled from existent Sri Lankan location kitchens and thoroughfare corners. Chef Dush Ratnayake from Sri Lanka leads the way, portion Indian chefs Mohit Kumar and Romil Malhotra usage their luxury edifice grooming to support the monolithic 175-seater moving smoothly.

We statesman our repast with choon paan food formation — baked breadstuff served with a trio of colourful flavoured butters. The fiery orangish tandoori food pays homage to India, achromatic Nori and citrus correspond the sea, and a greenish curry leafage pesto is rooted firmly successful Sri Lanka. It is simply a amusive opening ritual that sets the signifier for an unconventional eating experience. Aptly titled plot aft monsoon, the crockery that comes adjacent has paper-thin wraps of cucumber enveloping creamy Danish cheese, paired with watermelon spheres successful a passionateness effect vinaigrette.

Pillow fight, which reminds america of a seesaw successful its presentation, is really salmon and avocado connected puffed rice, an ode to the pillow fights of Sri Lanka’s caller twelvemonth celebrations. While the storytelling is connected point, the crockery lacks the punchy execution of the starters that preceded it. The beverage and treasure rolls successful chickenhearted and prawn bash not impressment overmuch either — the panko crust is somewhat dense, and takes distant from the filling inside. Luckily, that missing spark arrives with the land burrata. As Chef Dush points out, cipher eats burrata successful Sri Lanka, “but we bash devour a batch of buffalo beverage curd.” This crockery makes usage of buffalo-milk burrata connected a furniture of pomelo and pineapple tossed successful achcharu (pickle) spices with curry leaf, and topped with a crisp parmesan cracker.

The hardest happening to marque connected the menu, according to Chef Dush, is the lamprais, thought it looks the simplest. Wrapped successful a banana leaf, the spiced atom with brinjal and seeni sambol is packed with meatballs and chickenhearted gravy. It is simply a restrained dish, utilizing conscionable 4 spices, but determination is simply a unsmooth complexity to it, which by the 2nd bite, you commencement appreciating and by the end, you privation determination was immoderate much near connected the sheet to eat. We extremity the repast with a guava tart baked with a delicate citrus curd and raisin puree. Toasted coconut flakes and pome shavings adhd a crisp, refreshing texture to the dessert.

The cocktails proceed this exploration of Sri Lankan ingredients and flavour profiles. The frangipani Martini impresses with its delicate gin and frangipani infusion, portion the gin-based kandyan Negroni with rambutan infused campari and saccharine vermouth has a fiery reddish glow and is beautifully dialled down with the fruit’s sweetness.

Stepping retired of Zetu and walking past the banyan histrion again, we consciousness the span betwixt Sri Lanka and Delhi has narrowed a spot and the capital’s eating country is each the richer for it.

Zetu is astatine 1AQ, Seth Sarai, Mehrauli, New Delhi and is unfastened from noon to midnight. A repast for 2 costs ₹8,000 without alcohol. FOr reservations telephone +918796056111.