How Assam’s cotton is getting a contemporary spin

The silk of Assam is often celebrated, but the state’s textile bequest extends acold beyond Muga and Eri. Cotton, too, has agelong had a spot successful Assamese homes — conscionable not often successful their wardrobes. Its thickness made it bulky, amended suited for household usage than modern fashion. But for Assam-based decorator Anushka Das, laminitis of Anushka Annasuya and Kalpavriksh Design, that situation was an opportunity.

She acceptable retired to make a lighter, finer mentation of Assam textile((traditional manus woven Assam fabric is heavy and rough) — a textile that tells stories of the state’s culture, flora, and fauna done its motifs. Working intimately with the women weavers of Aagor Society successful Chirang territory since precocious 2022, Anushka has been helping nutrient formal materials and location linen that merge Assamese trade with modern usability. Aagor presently runs 30 looms and collaborates with women crossed Chirang, Kokrajhar, and Udalguri. “We’ve besides begun moving with the women weavers of Tezpur Mahila Samity, a co-operative acceptable up successful 1947,” she adds.

What sets Assam fabric isolated is its strength, colour fastness, and soft, fluid texture. Anushka’s process combines accepted Assamese weaving with Salem fabric yarns — Azo-free (synthetic oregon earthy colourants that bash not incorporate harmful azo compounds and colourfast)— creating a sustainable, chemical-free textile that retains the intricate extra-weft motifs the portion is known for. “The chemical-free quality ensures information for some artisans and wearers,” she explains. “Reliable colourfastness means the fabrics don’t bleed during washing, which is captious for preserving elaborate motifs.”

Her plan vocabulary draws from the state’s dual traditions. “Assamese weaving is known for its brushed pick oregon achromatic basal enlivened with extra-weft motifs — creepers, birds, rhinos, the jaapi — arranged with restraint to make a subtle yet dignified aesthetic,” says Anushka. “In contrast, the Bodo people contributes a much geometric vocabulary, with motifs similar dinghkiya bibar (fern), kasau bikha (turtle’s shell), and phareo megon (pigeon’s eye), woven successful bold reds, yellows, and greens.”

For location decor, the thread number ranges from 20s to 40s; for garments, it goes up to 120s, allowing for lighter, much refined fabrics. This nuanced knowing of plan comes from Anushka’s 18 years successful the textile and manner industry. She began her vocation with Neeru Kumar and Ritu Kumar, starring plan collections for some home and planetary clients earlier launching her ain statement successful 2011.

Her transportation to Aagor goes backmost to 2004, erstwhile arsenic a pupil astatine NIFT Delhi she archetypal visited the weaving clump for a trade sensitisation project. That acquisition stayed with her. “Relocating aft 21 years has taught maine to admit diversity,” she reflects. “Working with the weaving belts of the Northeast and taking work for their livelihoods has present go my top responsibility.” She credits Aagor’s accumulation manager Phungka Daimari and caput weaver Sushila Basumatari for their concern successful this ongoing revival.

Comparing Assam fabric with different Indian varieties, Anushka explains, “Assam fabric is soft, fine, and fluid, often handspun with flimsy slubs that springiness it a natural, astir silky texture. Gujarat’s khadi is heavier and much rustic, Bengal’s tant has crisp starchiness, and Tamil Nadu’s kora cottons are stiff.”

The looms themselves besides signifier the fabric’s identity. Assamese looms, typically made of bamboo and wood, are lightweight and raised supra the crushed — perfect for the state’s humid, flood-prone climate. Designed for plain weaves with extra-weft insertions, they let weavers to hand-pick motifs, giving Assam fabric its delicate patterns and signature drape. But due to the fact that they’re small, productivity remains constricted compared to pit oregon framework looms successful Bengal oregon South India.

Through this delicate equilibrium of craft, design, and innovation, Anushka hopes to instrumentality Assam fabric to mundane wardrobes— without compromising its taste essence. “With its linguistic and taste distinctiveness, Assam’s fabric weaving contented reflects the practice of its radical and their transportation to the land,” she says. “These textiles are much than garments, they’re surviving tapestries, symbols of resilience and artistry.”